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By KilianEau de Parfum · EST. 2017

Black Phantom

A boozy, bittersweet gourmand subtitled 'Memento Mori,' built on rum, coffee, dark caramel, and a hint of almond. Black Phantom is one of By Kilian's most distinctive gourmands, balancing sweetness with a roasted, slightly bitter edge.

NOSE: Sidonie LancesseurRELEASED: 2017RETAIL: $245 - $395
The Quick Answer

Black Phantom opens on Coffee and Rum, moves through Sugar Cane and Caramel, and dries down to Sandalwood and Dark Chocolate. At $245 - $395 it is firmly luxury pricing that demands you love the profile first, with moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h) on skin. Reasonably safe to blind buy if the note list appeals to you.

ADEGBE ANALYSIS SCORES

6.7
Expert
7.4
Longevity
7.2
Sillage
7.9
Versatility
4.9
Value

Scores are AdeGbe's editorial analysis based on composition, concentration and community-reported performance — not a single personal wear test.

Approx. $2.45/mlBased on the lowest street price ($245) over an assumed 100ml bottle for this concentration.

OLFACTORY PYRAMID BREAKDOWN

TOP NOTESFirst impression · 15–30 min
  • Coffee
  • Rum
  • Almond
HEART NOTESCore character · 2–4 hours
  • Sugar Cane
  • Caramel
BASE NOTESDry-down · 6–24+ hours
  • Sandalwood
  • Dark Chocolate
  • Vanilla

EXPERT ANALYSIS — COMPOSITION & PERFORMANCE

AG
AdeGbe Fragrance Research Team Data-Driven Analysis
Olfactory composition & performance assessment
Updated Autumn 2026Eau de ParfumMethodology: note-pyramid analysis + community performance data + AdeGbe scoring model

Black Phantom is By Kilian's 2017 eau de parfum from perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur. Our analysis examines its three-phase structure, its longevity and projection profile, and the occasions it serves best.

The Opening

From the first spray, Coffee, Rum, Almond establish a sweet gourmand character that defines the top of the composition.

The Heart

Beneath the opening, a sweet gourmand heart of Sugar Cane, Caramel forms the signature most people will recognise.

The Dry-Down

The dry-down anchors on a dry woods and sweet gourmand base of Sandalwood, Dark Chocolate, Vanilla, the phase that clings closest to skin and lasts longest.

Projected Performance Timeline
Hour 1
Coffee and Rum opening. Strong, room-filling projection.
Hour 4
Sugar Cane and Caramel heart fully developed. Still projecting clearly.
Hour 8
Sandalwood and Dark Chocolate base emerges. Becoming a skin scent.
Hour 10
Soft base notes still detectable close to skin.
Longevity
7.4/10
Sillage
7.2/10
Blind Buy
LOW RISK
Final Score
8.8/10

Who Should Buy Black Phantom

Black Phantom is genuinely unisex. Its season vector points strongest to autumn, and its day/night balance makes it best suited to evening wear and going out. If you gravitate toward dry woods and sweet gourmand compositions and want a more moderate, easy-going wear, it belongs on your shortlist.

One Honest Warning

No major red flags in the composition, but fragrance is personal — skin chemistry can shift the balance of notes, so a sample wear is always wiser than a blind purchase at this price.

Analysis based on composition, community-aggregated performance data, and the AdeGbe scoring model.A human skin-test review is added as our team tests each fragrance.

PERFORMANCE INDEX & SUITABILITY VECTORS

LONGEVITY FACTORModerate to Long Lasting (6h - 8h)
Weak (1h)Moderate (4-6h)Beast (24h+)
SILLAGE / PROJECTIONModerate Projection
IntimateModerateEnormous
DAY · NIGHT SUITABILITY
DAY
30%
NIGHT
70%
GENDER INDEXShared / Unisex
FEMININEUNISEXMASCULINE
SEASON SUITABILITY VECTOR
SPRING 🌸15%
SUMMER ☀️10%
AUTUMN 🍂40%
WINTER ❄️35%

PROJECTED PERFORMANCE TIMELINE

Projected from this fragrance's concentration, note structure and reported longevity — an analysis, not a single personal wear test.

Hour 1
Top burst

Coffee and Rum lead the opening before the volatile top notes burn off.

Projection: Strong
Hour 4
Heart in bloom

Sugar Cane and Caramel take over as the core character of the fragrance.

Projection: Strong
Hour 8
Early dry-down

Sandalwood and Dark Chocolate anchor the scent close to the skin.

Projection: Moderate
Hour 12
Base residue

A skin-scent of Sandalwood and Dark Chocolate is what typically remains by now.

Projection: Skin-close

Wear It

  • Autumn / Fall (40% seasonal fit)
  • Winter (35% seasonal fit)
  • Evenings, dinners and going out

Skip It

  • Spring — it underperforms here (15%)
  • Summer — it underperforms here (10%)
  • Hot daytime errands — it can read too heavy

Blind-Buy Risk

37/100SAMPLE FIRST
Risk factors
  • Strongly sweet/gourmand — can read as cloying to some wearers
In its favour
  • Dense sweetness is love-it-or-hate-it and can fatigue the wearer over a long day.

INGREDIENT SAFETY SNAPSHOT

Coumarin

IFRA-restricted; coumarin sources carry a general pregnancy-caution flag.

Benzyl Benzoate (fixative)

Generally well-tolerated base/fixative materials with low sensitiser risk.

This snapshot is based on the published note list, not a full INCI ingredient breakdown. Always check the box for the official allergen declaration and patch-test if you have sensitive skin. See full ingredient-safety guides →

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What does By Kilian Black Phantom smell like?
Black Phantom is a boozy gourmand with roasted coffee, rum, caramel, and almond, balanced by a slightly bitter, roasted edge over a woody base.
Is Black Phantom unisex?
Yes. Its coffee-rum-caramel profile is fully unisex and is worn comfortably by anyone who enjoys boozy, dessert-leaning scents.
How long does Black Phantom last?
Performance is moderate, around 6 to 8 hours, with the coffee and boozy notes often softening into a closer skin scent after the first few hours.
Is Black Phantom worth buying?
For the money, Black Phantom ($245 - $395) is a considered purchase. It projects at a moderate projection level and lasts in the range of moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h), which puts its performance around the average mark. It is worth it if you connect with its Coffee and Rum character; if you want an all-occasion safe blind buy, sample first because it leans toward evening wear.
Can I wear Black Phantom to the office?
Yes, within reason. Black Phantom sits at a moderate moderate projection projection, which is generally office-friendly with one to two sprays. Apply before you leave home rather than at your desk, and you should stay within polite, non-intrusive range through the working day.
Is Black Phantom good for summer?
Not really. Black Phantom scores only 10% for summer — heat tends to amplify its Sandalwood and Dark Chocolate base and push it toward cloying. It performs far better in autumn, so save it for cooler months and reach for something lighter when it is hot.
How many sprays of Black Phantom should I use?
Two to four sprays suits most people. Black Phantom has moderate projection projection, so you can apply a little more generously than a beast-mode scent without crowding others. Spread sprays across pulse points and let it settle; its moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h) longevity means you rarely need to reapply.
Is Black Phantom safe for sensitive skin?
Black Phantom is an alcohol-based eau de parfum and its note list includes materials such as Coffee, Rum and Almond, some of which fall under EU-declarable allergen rules (for example linalool, limonene or coumarin depending on the notes). That does not make it unsafe — most wearers have no reaction — but if your skin is reactive, spray onto clothing or patch-test on the inner arm first. This guidance is based on the published note list, not a full INCI breakdown.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Black Phantom.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Black Phantom.

TOP DUPES & AFFORDABLE ALTERNATIVES

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