50,000+ Reviewed · Honest Dupes · Find Your Scent →
BACK TO DIRECTORY
Yves Saint LaurentEau de Toilette · EST. 1977

Opium

A landmark spicy oriental built on a warm tapestry of clove, carnation, myrrh, and balsamic resins. One of the most influential and recognisable fragrances ever made, defining the opulent oriental genre.

NOSE: Jean Amic, Jean-Louis SieuzacRELEASED: 1977RETAIL: $70 - $120
The Quick Answer

Opium opens on Clove and Pepper, moves through Carnation and Myrrh, and dries down to Labdanum and Benzoin. At $70 - $120 it is which sits at fair mid-range value, with long lasting (8h - 10h) on skin. Sample before you commit — it is loud and polarising rather than crowd-safe.

ADEGBE ANALYSIS SCORES

8.4
Expert
8.6
Longevity
8.4
Sillage
5.8
Versatility
10.0
Value

Scores are AdeGbe's editorial analysis based on composition, concentration and community-reported performance — not a single personal wear test.

Approx. $0.70/mlBased on the lowest street price ($70) over an assumed 100ml bottle for this concentration.

OLFACTORY PYRAMID BREAKDOWN

TOP NOTESFirst impression · 15–30 min
  • Clove
  • Pepper
  • Bay Leaf
  • Mandarin
HEART NOTESCore character · 2–4 hours
  • Carnation
  • Myrrh
  • Cinnamon
  • Jasmine
BASE NOTESDry-down · 6–24+ hours
  • Labdanum
  • Benzoin
  • Patchouli
  • Vanilla

EXPERT ANALYSIS — COMPOSITION & PERFORMANCE

AG
AdeGbe Fragrance Research Team Data-Driven Analysis
Olfactory composition & performance assessment
Updated Winter 2026Eau de ToiletteMethodology: note-pyramid analysis + community performance data + AdeGbe scoring model

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is a bright citrus-leaning eau de toilette released in 1977, composed by Jean Amic, Jean-Louis Sieuzac. This is our research team's structured analysis of how it is built, how it performs, and who it suits — based on its composition, community-aggregated performance data, and the AdeGbe scoring model.

The Opening

It opens on Clove, Pepper, Bay Leaf, a bright citrus and warm spice introduction that sets expectations before the heart emerges.

The Heart

Beneath the opening, a floral and warm spice heart of Carnation, Myrrh, Cinnamon forms the signature most people will recognise.

The Dry-Down

The dry-down anchors on a golden amber and sweet gourmand base of Labdanum, Benzoin, Patchouli, the phase that clings closest to skin and lasts longest.

Projected Performance Timeline
Hour 1
Clove and Pepper opening. Strong, room-filling projection.
Hour 4
Carnation and Myrrh heart fully developed. Still projecting clearly.
Hour 8
Labdanum and Benzoin base emerges. Performance holding well.
Hour 11
Soft base notes still detectable close to skin.
Longevity
8.6/10
Sillage
8.4/10
Blind Buy
LOW RISK
Final Score
9.1/10

Who Should Buy Opium

Opium leans feminine but is wearable by anyone who enjoys the style. Its season vector points strongest to winter, and its day/night balance makes it best suited to evening wear and going out. If you gravitate toward bright citrus and floral compositions and want strong longevity, it belongs on your shortlist.

One Honest Warning

Performance and quality are not in question here. The honest caveat is ubiquity: Opium is widely worn, so if smelling distinctive matters more to you than smelling excellent, factor that in.

Analysis based on composition, community-aggregated performance data, and the AdeGbe scoring model.A human skin-test review is added as our team tests each fragrance.

PERFORMANCE INDEX & SUITABILITY VECTORS

LONGEVITY FACTORLong Lasting (8h - 10h)
Weak (1h)Moderate (4-6h)Beast (24h+)
SILLAGE / PROJECTIONStrong Projection
IntimateModerateEnormous
DAY · NIGHT SUITABILITY
DAY
20%
NIGHT
80%
GENDER INDEXFeminine
FEMININEUNISEXMASCULINE
SEASON SUITABILITY VECTOR
SPRING 🌸10%
SUMMER ☀️5%
AUTUMN 🍂40%
WINTER ❄️45%

PROJECTED PERFORMANCE TIMELINE

Projected from this fragrance's concentration, note structure and reported longevity — an analysis, not a single personal wear test.

Hour 1
Top burst

Clove and Pepper lead the opening before the volatile top notes burn off.

Projection: Strong
Hour 4
Heart in bloom

Carnation and Myrrh take over as the core character of the fragrance.

Projection: Strong
Hour 8
Early dry-down

Labdanum and Benzoin anchor the scent close to the skin.

Projection: Moderate
Hour 12
Base residue

A skin-scent of Labdanum and Benzoin is what typically remains by now.

Projection: Skin-close

Wear It

  • Winter (45% seasonal fit)
  • Autumn / Fall (40% seasonal fit)
  • Evenings, dinners and going out

Skip It

  • Spring — it underperforms here (10%)
  • Summer — it underperforms here (5%)
  • Enclosed offices, lifts and meeting rooms
  • Go easy: 1–2 sprays is plenty
  • Hot daytime errands — it can read too heavy

Blind-Buy Risk

25/100SAFE
Risk factors
  • Balanced, conventional profile with no major red flags
In its favour
  • Nothing in the published notes suggests an unusually divisive scent.

INGREDIENT SAFETY SNAPSHOT

Linalool / Limonene

Common EU-declarable allergens; can oxidise and irritate sensitive skin.

Cinnamal / Hexyl Cinnamal / Eugenol

Spice aldehydes are EU-declarable and among the more common skin sensitisers.

Benzyl Salicylate / Benzyl Benzoate

White-floral declarables; usually well tolerated but listed under EU rules.

Benzyl Benzoate (fixative)

Generally well-tolerated base/fixative materials with low sensitiser risk.

This snapshot is based on the published note list, not a full INCI ingredient breakdown. Always check the box for the official allergen declaration and patch-test if you have sensitive skin. See full ingredient-safety guides →

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What does YSL Opium smell like?
Opium is a warm, spicy oriental. It opens with clove, pepper, and bay leaf, moves into a carnation and myrrh heart, and dries down to labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla. The overall impression is rich, resinous, and balsamic.
Has Opium been reformulated?
Yes. Like most classics from the 1970s, Opium has been reformulated several times due to changing ingredient regulations. Modern versions are smoother and somewhat lighter than vintage bottles, which retain more of the original's animalic and resinous depth.
When is the best time to wear Opium?
Opium is best for autumn and winter evenings and formal occasions. Its heavy spice and resin profile makes it too warm for hot weather and too intense for most casual daytime settings.
Is Opium worth buying?
For the money, Opium ($70 - $120) is a fair buy. It projects at a strong projection level and lasts in the range of long lasting (8h - 10h), which puts its performance well above average. It is worth it if you connect with its Clove and Pepper character; if you want an all-occasion safe blind buy, sample first because it leans toward evening wear.
Can I wear Opium to the office?
Be careful. Opium projects strongly (strong projection), so in an enclosed office it can easily overwhelm colleagues. If you must wear it to work, limit yourself to one light spray on clothing and avoid reapplying. For shared indoor spaces, a softer fragrance is the more considerate choice.
Is Opium good for summer?
Not really. Opium scores only 5% for summer — heat tends to amplify its Labdanum and Benzoin base and push it toward cloying. It performs far better in winter, so save it for cooler months and reach for something lighter when it is hot.
How many sprays of Opium should I use?
Go light. Because Opium projects at a strong projection level, one to two sprays is plenty for most settings — one on the chest and one on a wrist. Three or more can quickly become overwhelming indoors. With longevity in the long lasting (8h - 10h) range, even a small application carries you through the day.
Is Opium safe for sensitive skin?
Opium is an alcohol-based eau de toilette and its note list includes materials such as Clove, Pepper and Bay Leaf, some of which fall under EU-declarable allergen rules (for example linalool, limonene or coumarin depending on the notes). That does not make it unsafe — most wearers have no reaction — but if your skin is reactive, spray onto clothing or patch-test on the inner arm first. This guidance is based on the published note list, not a full INCI breakdown.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Opium.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Opium.

TOP DUPES & AFFORDABLE ALTERNATIVES

Looking for a more affordable scent in the same family as Opium? Use our free Dupe Finder to match it against thousands of fragrances by note similarity.

Find dupes for Opium
ADEGBEDRAFTING 3D PERSPECTIVE...
N° ENC-1977OpiumANTI-GRAVITY CONTAINER VISUAL
4.9 RATED